L’École Valrhona is one of the most outstanding training centers in France, with a cast of young professionals who hoard great talent and a lot of enthusiasm. In the 2015 edition, we saw how one of its trainers obtained the title of MOF, Christophe Renou. In the latest edition, the one who has gained this recognition has been David Briand. Forged for years in Oriol Balaguer’s demanding workshop and trainer for Valrhona since 2014, Briand stands out for his non-conformist and competitive spirit. A spirit that is reflected both in his great work at the MOF final.
“My showcase revolved around the butterfly effect or the impact of man on nature. From there I would choose either this individual piece or my artistic sugar piece, which represents the past, the harmony of an ecosystem that I hope will last”. We share the recipe for L’Hésperie, an individual piece that is sugar and gluten free. To make it, he chose ingredients such as maltitol (a polyol chemically close to sucrose), buckwheat, and rice flour (which has a neutral taste and is gluten-free). At so good #21 we also interviewed him.
“My showcase revolved around the butterfly effect or the impact of man on nature. From there I would choose either this individual piece or my artistic sugar piece, which represents the past, the harmony of an ecosystem that I hope will last”
- 120 g maltitol *
- 80 g salted Guérande butter
- 40 g buckwheat flour *
- 40 g rice flour *
- 50 g egg whites
Melt the butter, mix the flour and egg whites with the maltitol. Spread between two sheets of parchment. Freeze. Bake for eight minutes at 180ºC.
Reconstituted buckwheat crisp
- 330 g buckwheat crisp
- 110 g Kasha grains
- 110 g cocoa butter
- 55 g dry butter 84%
- 2 g orange peel
Cook the buckwheat crisp, lightly beat the Kasha grains, mix with cocoa butter, and melted butter. Add the orange peel. 30 g for petit gâteau.
- 2 g NH pectin
- 25 g maltitol *
- 1 g gelatin powder
- 5 g water of hydration
- 40 g fresh orange juice
- 75 g fresh passion fruit juice
Mix the pectin with a small part of maltitol. Heat the orange juice, the passion fruit juice and the maltitol at 40ºC, add the pectin. Bring to a boil. Add the gelatin. Set aside.
Mix the pectin with a small part of maltitol. Heat the water and maltitol to 40 ° C, add the pectin. Bring to a boil. Add the citric acid. Set aside.
Viennese coffee cake
- 25 g yolks
- 70 g whole eggs
- 55 g maltitol *
- 45 g egg whites
- 15 g maltitol *
- 35 g rice flour *
- 2,5 g pure arabica soluble coffee
Beat the yolks, eggs and the first part of maltitol. Beat the egg whites in parallel with the soluble coffee and add the maltitol little by little. Sift the rice flour. Combine the two mixtures gently and add the rice flour. Spread on a plate and cook at 200ºC.
- 75 g cream 35% d’Isigny AOP
- 95 g grains of pure Arabica coffee from Mexico
- 45 g espresso coffee
- 2 g pure soluble arabica coffee
- 40 g maltitol *
- 25 g cocoa butter
- 2 g gelatin powder
- 10 g water of hydration
- 190 g cream 35% d’Isigny AOP
Infuse the cream with the coffee bean. Strain. Add espresso coffee, soluble coffee and maltitol. Add the gelatin, emulsify on the cocoa butter. Set aside.
- 130 g orange Navelina
- 12 g dry butter 84%
- 65 g maltitol *
- 95 g fresh passion fruit juice
- 2 g potato starch
Blanch the oranges for approximately 30 minutes. Cut into pieces and brown in butter. Add the maltitol and let it reduce. Dissolve the potato starch in a portion of the passion juice. Slowly add the passion fruit juice and let it reduce. Finish with the juice and starch mixture. Boil. Mix and set aside.
Make the buckwheat crisp, the passion fruit gel, the coffee mounted on ganache, the sponge cake and the orange compote. Set aside.
Make the reconstituted buckwheat and then place 30 g in a circle of 7.5 cm in diameter, using a small spatula and a second circle of 6 cm in diameter, lightly press the crisp to create an edge. Set aside.
Spread the passion gel in a silicone cut with the desired pattern and freeze.
Spread the orange compote over the coffee cake and then roll it up. Set aside.
Cut pieces of roll 1.5 cm wide and spread 6 g of orange compote. Freeze.
Beat the coffee mounted on ganache, place a circle of 6 cm in diameter in the passion fruit gel, place 20 g of ganache and finish with the these cookie disks. Freeze.
Unmold and then, using a spray gun, spray a light veil on the unmolded discs. Place inside the Reconstituted buckwheat crisp.
* Maltitol is a polyalcohol (sugar alcohol) that is chemically similar to sucrose.
* Buckwheat. Despite its common name of black wheat, it is not a species of the genus Triticum (genus that groups wheat varieties), not even a grass. Therefore, it is devoid of gluten.
* Rice flour is the gluten-free flour which is used the most to replace wheat flour because it has a neutral flavor.