Enric Monzonis has a brilliant career full of unique and surprising ideas that we have had the pleasure of enjoying practically since his time at Albert Adrià’s Tickets. For a few years he has been part of the team at the Chocolate Academy of Barcelona and has been a Cacao Barry technician. On this occasion he brings us a chocolate cake (entremet) that is thought out in its combination of flavors as in its suggestive presentation. This year they are celebrating their anniversary at the Chocolate Academy, a 25-year journey that they propose to celebrate with creations like this and also with the creations that Enric Monzonis shares with us in the most recent #sogood25.
Enric himself explains the keys to this cake that combines chocolate with a citrus bouquet with orange as the central flavor below.
“Making a chocolate dessert that surprises and is different in terms of flavor is very difficult. I have thought the same for a long time, and the more years I spend in the trade, the more I can confirm it. What I propose in this case is to surprise with a classic, chocolate with orange. It is also a challenge to surprise with something that people already know and surely have idealized. How do I try to achieve this? Lightness, creaminess, a lot of chocolate flavor and a peculiar orange flavor that fits perfectly. We achieve this by adding a product that surely everyone knows, but we do not use much, the kumquat. Many times it is surely underestimated for its “complicated” use, but I encourage you to use it because its essential oil, its freshness, and slight bitterness add another dimension to the orange register that we all know. Regarding aesthetics, it would be the example of how far we can get involved in decoration to try to convey the concept we want. In this case, emulating a “packaging”, a tool surely increasingly present in our daily life, which tries to tell us what we are going to eat.”
Photos by Ivan Raga
Chocolate cake with orange
- 225 g butter
- 225 g brown sugar
- 225 g almond flour
- 180 g loose flour
- 45 g cocoa powder selection 22
- 2,5 g fine salt
In the blender with the paddle, homogenize the butter. Add the brown sugar and then the rest of the previously sifted ingredients. Work it, stretch into a tube, film it and store it in the fridge. Pass through a mincer and distribute on a baking tray with silpain. Cook at 170ºC for 10 minutes, open draft and medium ventilation.
- 560 g cocoa crumble
- 190 g Lactée Superieure 32% milk chocolate couverture
- 40 g sunflower oil
Melt the couverture at around 45ºC and mix with the oil. Mix with the crumble and reserve at 35ºC.
- 200 g butter
- 400 g Inaya 65% dark chocolate couverture
- 190 g pasteurized egg yolk
- 380 g pasteurized egg whites
- 230 g sugar
- 1 g cream of tartar
- 70 g bread flour
Make a meringue with the whites, the sucrose and the cream of tartar. Melt the butter together with the dark chocolate couverture at about 55ºC. Add the yolks and mix lightly. Make a mother with a little meringue and finish mixing the rest in an enveloping way. Finish by adding the previously sifted flour. Dose the sponge cake into 14 cm rings and top with the cocoa crumble. Cook at 190ºC for 6 minutes, closed draft and medium ventilation.
- 260 g whole milk
- 220 g cream 35% fat
- 130 g pasteurized egg yolks
- 3 g gelatin sheets
- 300 g milk couverture Alunga 41%
- 280 g milk couverture Lactée Supérieure 38%
- 6 g cinnamon powder
Boil cream and milk with the cinnamon and add the egg yolks to make a crème anglaise to 84ºC. Add the gelatin, previously soaked, and pour onto the half melted couvertures. Emulsify and cool down to 33ºC. Put into a piping bag with a n.10 tip.
- 170 g blanched whole oranges
- 115 g blanched whole kumquat
- 150 g natural orange juice
- 150 g liquefied kumquat juice
- 75 g yuzu juice
- 150 g glucose DE40
- 100 g 1000 flowers honey
- 75 g sugar
- 8 g pectine nh
- 6 g gelatin sheets
Pass the orange and kumquat peels through the mincer and reserve. Combine sugar and pectine. Mix yuzu and orange juices with the honey and glucose and heat up to 40ºC. Sprinkle sugar and pectine combined and bring to a boil for a few seconds. Mix the previousle soaked gelatin sheets. Pour over the juice with the oranges and mix well. Let cool down in the fridge and stir. Let in the fridge until set and transfer to a piping bag.
- 210 g whole milk
- 210 g cream 35% fat
- 60 g Trimoline inverted sugar
- 115 g pasteurized yolks
- 550 g Alto el Sol 65% dark chocolate couverture
- 535 g semi-whipped cream
Heat the yolks to about 45-50ºC. Heat the cream along with the milk, the trimoline and bring to a boil. Blanch the yolks and check the temperature of 83ºC. Pour the crème anglaise on top of the previously melted coating and emulsify. When the mixture reaches a temperature of 40ºC, mix with the semi-whipped cream.
Fleur de Cao glaze
- 600 g mineral water
- 500 g sugar
- 700 g glucose syrup DE44
- 400 g condensed milk
- 56 g gelatin sheet
- 45 g Extra Brute cocoa powder
- 600 g Fleur de Cao 70% dark couverture
Heat the water to 40ºC and add the sucrose, cocoa powder, and glucose until boiling. Add the previously hydrated gelatin and mix. Pour over the couverture and the condensed milk and emulsify properly. Use at approximately 30-35ºC.
Prepare 6 14-cm diameter rings with 3 cm high acetate to mount the interior. Place a 14 cm diameter die-cut sponge disc. Put 95 g of croquant on each cake and spread over the surface. Pour out 160 g of cream, distributing it like teardrops. Pipe 130 g of citrus compote into the empty spaces left by the cream and freeze the finished interior. Prepare 6 rings of 16 cm in diameter with 4cm high acetate. Place 240 g of mousse and insert the frozen interior. Glaze and finish decorating the cake with the chocolate ring with the packaging-like element.