Ice cream has many derivatives in the restaurants of the group elBarri, by Albert Adrià. The pastry chef of this restauration group, David Gil, only reveals the tip of the iceberg in this article, some of his most interesting in very different establishments in Barcelona. Ice cream is the key to desserts which are truly varied, all avant-garde, from the frozen air of the ultra-light version of the strawberry and cream ice cream cake of the restaurant Tickets, the Fresier; to the intense basil sorbet of the dessert Wild Strawberry Aspic, at Bodega 1900; passing through the Mexican Mango Millefeuille, of Niño Viejo. In these restaurants, ice cream is taken beyond what is usually understood of in this product category, in a space where it is also presented under the influence of liquid nitrogen, Japanese kakigoris, and more conventional granitas, unbalanced nut ice creams, completing a wide range of techniques performed at temperatures below 0ºC.
David Gil talks about ice cream making which focuses on flavor within the framework of an experimental kitchen. However, unlike other haute cuisine restaurants, ice cream is not only thought and formulated for a short commercial life. It depends on the needs and goals for each ice cream. Gil graduated from the Hofmann School in the Catalan capital and extended his vision of the trade in Can Jubany to then continue in Le Calandre, Bras-Laguiole and Mugaritz.
‘This is an elegant dessert which perfectly fits in one of our classic restaurants – Bodega 1900. It is based on two concepts. On the one side, the French aspics – a type of tasteless jelly, molded and aromatized, used in the preparation of cold dishes of ham, foie gras, seafood, vegetables and even fruit. And on the other side, it meets the need for creating a very fresh sorbet, which reflected the deep green color of chlorophyll. This is reason why we refused to use a dairy base to work it, and that is why it is made and consumed on the same day so that the basil – the main character in this plate – does not oxidize or darken. In the restaurant, the base syrup for the sorbet is made in advance, and when it comes to serving, the basil leaves are crushed roughly for 30 seconds, as they would oxidize if done for a longer time. From the very moment that the basil comes into play, the different preparation steps must be carried out steadily, otherwise the attractive green color of chlorophyll would be lost.
In order to compensate the sugars in the base syrup, we add some lime juice, whose acidity decreases the sweetness of the sorbet and intensifies its green color. Also, it is important to add the lime juice right before the mix is transferred to the ice cream machine’
Wild strawberry aspic (Bodega 1900 Restaurant)
- 1000 g frozen strawberries
- 100 g sugar
Place the strawberries with the sugar in a plastic wrap-covered bowl. Pierce the plastic wrap with a knife and heat in the microwave oven for 12 minutes. Strain and reserve the resulting water.
- 200 g strawberry water (see above)
- 200 g strawberries, cut into fourths
- 50 g Modena vinegar
- 20 g brown sugar
- ½ u orange peel
- 1 u thyme stem
- 1 u rosemary stem
Dissolve the brown sugar to make a caramel. Add the strawberries and then the balsamic vinegar and allow to evaporate for 10 seconds. Add the strawberry water and leave to cool in a container together with the thyme, rosemary and orange peel. Remove the strawberries to obtain the resulting liquid only.
- 1100 g water
- 320 g sucrose
- 100 g powdered glucose
- 52 g liquid glycerin
- 6.8 g stabilizer
- 1000 g of base syrup
- 200 g basil leaves
- 150 g lime juice
Combine the water and glycerin and heat up to 45ºC. Sprinkle in the sucrose, together with the glucose and stabilizer, previously mixed. Cook to 82ºC. Allow to cool down and mature for 24 hours. Process the base syrup and basil in a Thermomix for 30 seconds. Strain and add the lime juice right before spinning in the ice cream machine.
- 150 g wild strawberries
- 150 g strawberry marinade
- 0.80 g agar agar
- strawberry Lyo
- strawberry Crispis
*It is made with agar agar because we wanted a very subtle jelly. Using gelatin sheets would result in a hard jelly.
Place the wild strawberries in a round mold covered with plastic wrap. Boil a part of the marinade with the agar agar, remove from the heat and add the remaining marinade. Cover the strawberries with the marinade and allow to gel in the refrigerator.
- strawberry Crispis
- strawberry Lyo
Unmold the jelly onto the center of a round glass plate.
On one edge, place a spoonful of strawberry Crispis and four pieces of strawberry Lyo on top and use as a base for the quenelle.
Place the basil sorbet quenelle on top of the strawberry Crispis.
In a circular way, drizzle the strawberry marinade over the jelly, followed by a thin stream of olive oil and a bit of black pepper.
You will also find this two recipes in so good #18