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Sentiers de l’Esterel plated dessert with citrus and pine by Morgane Raimbaud

October 23, 2020
Sentiers de l’Esterel plated dessert with citrus and pine by Morgane Raimbaud
Fresh citrus (kumquat, limequat) and pine nut in mousse, chantilly, marmalade, sablés and nappage

 

Morgane Raimbaud, from Alliance restaurant in Paris, has been the winner of the professional category of the Championnat de France du Dessert 2020. The chef, who won the first prize in the junior category in 2016, has surprised the jury this year with a plate full of sensations.

The pastry chef came up with this dessert years ago after a walk through l’Esterel, in the south of France. “Before the ascent through the pine forest, I saw houses with gardens adorned with Mediterranean fruit trees, among which were citrus. The ideas in my head were about to explode, and I promised myself that one day I would transmit the emotion that I felt that day through a dessert”.

“Here we find the sublimated kumquat, worked whole as when I had seen it in this garden, but also available in various textures and cooking. Its brother, the limequat, provides energy and awakens the taste buds. To rediscover the scent of resin that my nostrils smelled during this walk, pine is used as an infusion in the form of a nedle, sprout, or even cone, combining subtlety and power at the same time. Finally, the pine nut adds sweetness and delicacy to this dish “

Photographies: Cultures Sucre / Julien Bouvier Studio

Sentiers de l’Esterel

Fresh citrus

  • 2 u kumquats
  • 2 u limequats
  • 1 or 2 u lemon caviar

Thinly slice the kumquats and limequats. Select the lemon caviar.


Iced Kumquat / Sorbet

  • 22 u kumquat
  • 300 g water
  • 150 g sugar
  • 127 g Les Vergers Boiron mandarin puree
  • 53 g sugar
  • 2,6 g stab 2000 stabilizer
  • 87 g yogurt
  • 13 g Les Vergers Boiron lime puree

Blanch the fruits five times. Cook over low heat for 25 minutes and drain. Empty the kumquats. Bring the syrup to a boil. Vacuum pack the kumquats with the syrup. Fill the sorbet with the drained kumquats and pass through the sorbet maker.


Pine Ice CreamMorgane Raimbaud

  • 240 g milk
  • 52 g yolks
  • 45 g brown sugar
  • 1,5 g stab 2000
  • 45 g toasted pine nuts
  • 8 g dehydrated pine needles
  • 8 g (dried pine sprouts)
  • 2 g pine cone powder

Heat the milk and brown sugar thickened with the stabilizer, together with the pine nuts + leaves + sprouts + powdered fruit. Boil and infuse for 10 minutes. Add the egg yolks and cook à l’anglaise. Mix, reserve, and put in the Pacojet. Finish by making the quenelles.


Limequat marmalade

  • 50 g sugar
  • 40 g Les Vergers Boiron lime puree
  • 30 g Les Vergers Boiron mandarin puree
  • 120 g limequat

Peel the limequats, mix in the Thermomix with the sugar and the purees. Cook and place in a mold. Reserve the rest for the gelée.


Pine nut mousse

Morgane Raimbaud during the montage

  • 80 g pine paste
  • 150 g 35% MG whipping cream
  • 14 g gelatin mass

Cold Italian meringue

  • 75 g egg whites
  • 75 g sugar
  • 45 g trimolin
  • 30 g glucose
  • 1 drop pine essential oil
  • 8 u kumquat

Whip the cream and reserve. Melt the gelatin with the pine pâte. Make a cold Italian meringue and add 65 g to the first mixture. Finish the mixture with the whipped cream. Cut the kumquats into thin slices, place them on the sides of the spherical molds, decorate with mousse and place the limequat marmalade + pine nut cookie inside. Freeze. Unmold, glaze with the topping and place on the granola cookie.


Pine Nut Chantilly

  • 100 g 35% MG whipping cream
  • 10 g brown sugar
  • 5 g dehydrated pine sprouts
  • 5 g dehydrated pine needles
  • 2 g pine cone powder
  • 5 g gelatin mass
  • 1 drop pine essential oil
  • 167 g 35% MG whipping cream

Infuse a part of the hot cream with needles, sprouts and pine cone powder for 10 minutes, and add the gelatin. Add cold cream and a drop of pine essential oil. Mix, reserve, and whip.


Pine nut cakeMorgane Raimbaud

  • 150 g eggs
  • 30 g yolks
  • 160 g powdered sugar
  • 130 g powdered pine nuts
  • 12 g cornstarch

Beat all the ingredients. Bake in a red silicone frame at 170º for 23 minutes. Let cool and cut and place the insides for the mousse under the sablés.


Pine nut granola sprinkles and drops

  • 20 g brown sugar
  • 100 g pine nuts
  • 40 g fir honey
  • 20 g puffed rice

Mix the elements, cook one part in the form of seeds at 170ºC for 8 minutes, spread the other part between two trays and bake at 170 ° for 12 minutes. Remove from the oven and cut into discs.

Pine nut praline

  • 10 g grapeseed oil

Mix the granola leftovers to obtain a paste, dilute with grapeseed oil if necessary. Reserve in bag.


Cone/Pine sablé

  • 26 g yolks
  • 130 g pine nut powder
  • 100 g powdered sugar
  • 80 g flour
  • 104 g rice flour
  • 0,5 g fleur de sel
  • 166 g butter
  • cocoa butter

Sable all the elements except the yolks and then add them. Distribute between two cooking plates. Freeze. Cut out the shapes and cook in two silpats at 165º for 12 minutes. Once out of the oven, sprinkle with cocoa butter.


Citrus gelée

  • 54 g Les Vergers Boiron lime puree
  • 120 g Les Vergers Boiron mandarin puree
  • 1,55 g agar

Bring to a boil and add the rest of the previously made marmalade. Pour into a red silicone frame. Once frozen, cut to size for the piece.


Pine nappageSentiers de l’Esterel by Morgane Raimbaud

  • 150 g water
  • 150 g sugar
  • 40 g gelatin mass
  • 1 drop pine oil

Bring everything to a boil and use hot.


Cress

  • 1 u Koppert Cress citra leaves tray

Finishes

  • Dehydrated Pine Needle Powder

Montage

Sprinkle the plate with dried needle powder. Place the gelée, the sponge cake, the sablé with the poached praline, the chantilly, the limequat slices, kumquats, lemon caviar balls and citra leaves. Place the sphere on top of the granola pallet and place the frozen kumquats, the pine sorbet quenelles, and the granola seeds. Clean the edges with vinegar.

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