On April 16 and 17, Paul Saiphet taught at L’École Valrhona Brooklyn the basic concepts of the science behind chocolate and the keys to correctly using this ingredient in pastry.
A small group of students discovered a wide variety of finishes and techniques (tempering, ganaches and mousses) from the Valrhona Pastry chef, in addition to learning the history, origin, sourcing and methods for the production of chocolate.
During the two days of training, Saiphet made molded bonbons, truffles, macarons, plated desserts, petits gâteaux, and others. Among all the creations, we were struck by this sweet Bahia Tart, combining hazelnut with white chocolate and coffee, and of which the very chef shows us his tips below.
Photos: Nitzan Rubin
Basic hazelnut sweet shortcrust
- 360 g butter
- 6 g salt
- 270 g confectioner’s sugar
- 90 g hazelnut flour
- 150 g whole eggs
- 180 g all-purpose flour
- 525 g all-purpose flour
Combine the softened butter with the salt, confectioner’s sugar, hazelnut flour, eggs and smaller quantity of flour. Take care not to over-mix. As soon as the mixture is combined, quickly fold in the remaining flour. Roll out the pastry to 3mm thickness and set aside in the refrigerator. Bake in a 60x10cm frame at 150-160°C (302-320°F) until it is an even golden color.
- 411 g butter (softened)
- 411 g confectioner’s sugar
- 411 g hazelnut flour
- 42 g corn starch
- 224 g whole eggs
Cream the butter, taking care not to add too much air, and then add the sifted dry ingredients. Gradually fold in the eggs and mix until just combined.
- 125 g whole milk
- 5 g powdered gelation (bloomed)
- 25 g water for gelatin (cold)
- 875 g 50% Almond Hazelnut Praliné
- 438 g whipping cream
Bloom the gelatin in the cold water for 5 minutes. Heat the milk and add the bloomed gelatin. Pour a little of this mixture onto the 50% Almond Hazelnut Praliné. Initially, it will split. Emulsify by gradually adding the remaining milk and then the cold cream to obtain a very elastic texture with a glossy appearance, signifying the emulsion process is underway. Blend to perfect the emulsion, taking care not to incorporate any air. Pour the crémeux into a shallow container and set aside in the refrigerator.
Whipped Opalys coffee ganache
- 85 g Arabica coffee beans
- 460 g whipping cream
- 50 g glucose syrup
- 50 g invert sugar
- 5 g instant coffee
- 315 g white chocolate Opalys 33% cocoa
- 695 g whipping cream (chilled)
Roast the coffee beans at 160°C (320°F) for 3 minutes. Take the first quantity of cream and heat until warm. Add the coffee beans and infuse, covering the pan with saran wrap. Strain and check the weight of the cream and top up if necessary. Combine this cream with the invert sugar and glucose and bring to a boil. Add the instant coffee and then slowly pour the hot liquid onto the Opalys 33% chocolate and stir in the center to create an elastic texture with a glossy appearance, signifying the emulsion process is underway. Blend to perfect the emulsion. Add the chilled whipping cream and blend again. Set aside in the refrigerator and leave to set overnight if possible.
- 125 g sugar
- 50 g water
- 250 g roasted hazelnuts
- 8 g fleur de sel
Roast and peel the hazelnuts. Cook the sugar and water to 115°C (239°F). Add the hazelnuts and salt to the cooked sugar. Candy the nuts and leave to cool on a baking sheet.
Assembly and Finishing
When the Basic Hazelnut Sweet Shortcrust has cooled, remove the frame and use a piping bag with a 10mm nozzle to pipe around 700g of Hazelnut Cream in balls onto the tart. Bake at 180°C (356°F). When cool, unmold and use a 10mm nozzle to pipe around 700g of Praliné Crémeux in droplets on the tart. Whip the Whipped Opalys Coffee Ganache and use a St. Honoré nozzle to pipe around 400g per strip. Blast freeze. Decorate the tart with the chocolate decorations and a few Candied Hazelnuts.