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The oven beats the freezer

July 15, 2022
The oven beats the freezer
Alberto Ruiz

Yohan Ferrant, French baker and author of the imminent release of booksforchefs ‘Oh, là, là!’ (September ‘22), says that the truth is what comes out of the mouth of the oven. Indeed, after this essential final step, the product shows itself as it is, with all its splendor and virtues, but also with its imperfections, if any. That truth is authenticity, and there is no mold or make-up that counts.

We have been observing for some time now, and we have written about it, that the oven has completely beaten the freezer in the vast majority of pastry establishments around the world, from north to south and from east to west. The panettone reigns supreme over the bavaroise, the croissant is experiencing a new heyday and the millefeuille fascinates everyone. Artisans are proving that even with baked goods you can be creative, while the public appreciates the value of immediacy, the freshly baked product, the unbeatable aroma of butter and that indescribable crispy sensation which a good caramelized puff pastry gives us. As the great Paco Torreblanca says in his book Radix, we have recovered the pastry that is munched on. But this is not just a leap back to the past, but one more stop on the evolutionary journey of artisan pastry.

In this new issue of so good.. magazine, you will find good examples of these pastries that, after facing the implacable truth of the oven, make us enjoy so much.

 

Discover So Good #28

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