One of the latest chefs to have taught a course at L’École Valrhona Brooklyn has been Derek Poirier. Under the title “Panning and Chocolate Treats”, the Valrhona Pastry Chef North America has given guidelines to develop a business from an extensive menu of snackable confections.
In three days, a small group of students has had the opportunity, among other things, to master the basic techniques of panning using a stand mixer attachment and a panning machine, to learn new methods to create bite sized snacks such as dragées, bars, marshmallows, candies and other creations with a variety of fillings, and to apply various finishes, glazes, and decorations.
Additionally, the Canadian chef has explained the science behind chocolate panning and engrossing and has prepared simple recipes that seduce the consumer like this Orelys Fraise Tonka dragée.
Photos: Nitzan Rubin
Orelys Fraise Tonka
- 420 g strawberry purée
- 38 g sugar
- 9 g yellow pectin
- 338 g sugar
- 21 g glucose syrup
- 6 g citric acid solution
- 4 g tonka bean
Heat the purée and the grated tonka bean together at 40°C (104°F).
While stirring, add the small amount of sugar mixed with the pectin. Bring to a boil and add the rest of the sugar.
Bring once again to a boil and add the glucose.
Cook at 72/74 Brix using a refractometer or at 105°C (221°F) with a thermometer.
Once cooked add the citric acid solution (50% water) and pour over immediately in a 34x34cmx4mm frame.
Engrossing process with Orelys blond chocolate
Engrossing is the process of building the chocolate around the center. In this case we will use Orelys blond chocolate (35%).
Run the center at a medium speed, around 45-50% on a Selmi Comfit, the product should run nicely and not fall.
In order to have a longer shelf life nuts, cover the center with 2 thin layers of 0.25% gum arabic solution (1arabic gum: 2 cold water). If the centers are candied fruits, or paté de fruits, separate them with dextrose before starting the engrossing process.
- Add a little quantity of untempered chocolate at the beginning (40-45°C[104-113°F]). To ensure the centers do not stick together, add them slowly from the beginning.
- The air flow should be adapted to the product and the chocolate.
1) 7-12°C (45-54°F) for white chocolate and milk chocolate.
2) 9-15°C (48-59°F) for dark chocolate.
- Once the desired ratio is reached, set the air flow to 4°C (39°F) and slowly warm the panner with a heat gun in order to melt the chocolate on the side. This technique must be done carefully with the white or blond chocolate.
- Set the rotation to 70-90% in order to smooth the product, heat if necessary to smooth the product. Make sure you do not over melt the product.
- Once polished, slow the speed to around 50% with cool air at 10°C (50°F) and pan until the center are cold.
- Leave to set for at least 3 hours before finishing.
If panning is done with sugar syrup, the syrup is added onto the centers with an air flow at 60-70°C (140-158°F) or on the chocolate with a cold syrup and no air flow.
For a powder finish effect, warm up a little bit of the product (possible to do this at the end of polishing when the panned items are still soft) and add the powder at a medium rotation.
Polishing/glazing (4 options)
- 57 g maltodextrin
- 35 g water
- 8g VALRHONA COCOA BUTTER
- 50 g Arabic gum
- 50 g lukewarm water
- Capol 254 N (Glaze)
- Centerchem MasterCoat POTT 154 A