When Paul Edward, of Chef Rubber and a good friend of so good.. magazine since our beginnings, encouraged us to focus on mixology, we couldn’t see how we could connect this discipline with pastry and chocolate, which are the raison d’être of our publication.
In so good.. magazine #30 it occurred to us that perhaps it was not so much a matter of uniting both gastronomic arts, but rather of defying them to compete against each other in a crazy challenge. The mixologist Yelena Anter had to turn the three classic desserts proposed by the chocolatier Luis Amado into three cocktails. And in the same way, chef Amado had to translate three classic cocktails chosen by Yelena Anter into the world of chocolate and pastry.
Luis Amado’s proposal
Luis Amado is one of the professionals with the greatest international capacity to imagine, create and execute an idea, through very personal and innovative designs. He was clearly our best candidate for this unique challenge, which he accepted without hesitation.
‘I never had a project through my career that provided a tremendous amount of fun and frustration at the same time. Accepting the challenge from such an acclaimed mixologist as Yelena Anter was nothing less than a pleasure’
This is how the chef explains his proposal:
I hope you enjoy my wild versions of these three classic cocktails. In all, I tried my best to stay true to the essential ingredients that made each of these cocktails worldwide known icons.
As you look at the recipe ingredients, you will encounter ingredients somewhat unusual to the chocolate industry but somehow more familiar to a pastry kitchen. Gelling agents such as carrageenan, locust bean gum, Peta crispies among others, have been used successfully for many years and certainly made my job much easier during this challenge. A member of my staff could not believe that I was using ketchup in the Bloody Mary bonbon but then after tasting it, he wanted another piece and then a day later he had another piece. What a great feeling, right?
‘A member of my staff could not believe that I was using ketchup in the Bloody Mary bonbon but then after tasting it, he wanted another piece and then a day later he had another piece.’
In the full version of the so good #30 you can find more detailed explanations of the chef and the creative exercise
Discover the recipes for the three Luis Amado desserts that can be eaten at so good #30
The French 75
I was pleasantly surprised in how well gin and champagne paired with the subtle and syrupy notes of the 36% Edelweiss chocolate. I decided to add Peta crispies to provide texture and a welcoming surprise factor. Furthermore, adding the lemon wrap symbolizes the classic lemon peel garnish that is used to decorate this cocktail. The bubble effect on the exterior is to mimic the sparkly bubbles that are often seen through the clear tall champagne glasses. At the end, this bonbon is all about balanced sweetness with tangy citrusy notes and plenty of textures.
The old fashioned
For this iconic cocktail, I put most of the effort in the jelly itself. I also took the liberty to add yuzu fruit as it went very well with the spicy notes of the bitters. Being that bitters contain nutmeg (among other flavors), I opted to include nutmeg with the brown butter wafer, keeping the traditional notes of the bitters but also giving this bonbon a more dramatic look. I thought of using my stencil technique to represent the curly orange peel which is commonly served inside the drink.
The Bloody Mary
The slightly sweet and smokey note properties of the 65% Cru Suhum provided the perfect base for the paprika and tomato to shine. The clear vodka jelly ice cubes added an element of taste and texture. The crystallized mint and the inclusion of fresh herbs are not only there to mimic the real cocktail but also bring originality and culinary folklore to the bonbon. This is definitely one bonbon to eat all in one bite.