Text by Reiko Matsuno / Photos by Noriko Carlow
The champion of World Chocolate Masters 2009 keeps himself busy in the kitchen with his wife and ex-pâtissière, Rie, and 8 apprentices in his pastry shop, L’AVENUE in Kobe which is located in West Japan. Shigeo Hirai won the victory when he was a sous-chef of the Pastry Department in Grand Hyatt Tokyo after dedicating himself there for 6 years. ‘Chocolates are the same. Jerry or fruit pastes, ganache and chocolate coatings melt in the mouth in order of water content and you would rediscover characteristics of each ingredient. In this way, you can highlight unique aspects of ingredients.’
Hirai wanted to liven up Kobe where he was born and raised, and like-minded six other pastry chefs in neighborhood got together to establish a group called ‘Origine Kobe’
Essence Choux: the same as Essence chocolat a l’orange, it is comprised of vanilla, hazelnut and citrus. In a puff are the lemon custard cream and vanilla-infused white chocolate whipped cream and hazelnut nougatine on the bottom. Creams are separated by a plate of gianduja.
Two layers of lemon pâte de fruit and raspberry ganache are coated by bitter chocolate, whose bitterness tightens the acidity of lemon and raspberry.
pâte de fruit citron
- 132 g lemon juice
- 66 g water
- 22 g glucose
- 242 g granulated sugar
- 7 g yellow pectin
- 2.5 g cream of tartar
- 2.5 g water
Put the lemon juice, water, glucose and half the granulated sugar in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Add the rest of the sugar and pectin and heat to 107ºC. Add the cream of tartar and water. Pour into a 30 x 30 cm with 3 mm height frame lined with silicone paper.
- 99 g raspberry purée
- 25 g fresh cream
- 36 g glucose
- 38 g butter
- 324 g Papouasie milk chocolate, 35% cocoa
- 10 g cocoa butter
- 7 g eau de vie de framboise
Put the raspberry purée, fresh cream and glucose in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Add the butter. Add the Papouasie and cocoa butter and mix very well. Add the eau de vie de framboise and let it cool to 30ºC. Pour it over the pâte de fruit citron with 5 mm thick. Leave to rest in the refrigerator at 18ºC for 24 hours to crystallize. Turn it upside down and pour the ganache framboise to 5 mm thick. Reserve in the refrigerator at 18ºC for 24 hours to crystallize.
- dark chocolate Extra bitter Guayaquil 65%
After the ganache framboise has crystallized, coat thinly both sides with Extra bitter Guayaquil and cut into 2.8 x 2.1 cm. Coat them with Extra Bitter Guayaquil.
You will find Essence Chocolat à l’Orange’ss recipe in so good #15