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A revisionist fever

so good #9

January 16, 2013
so good #9
A revisionist fever

The necessary respect for tradition is not incompatible with the not less necessary evolution. Progress, advance, the exploration of new ways, a new step ahead – all this is part of human condition itself.

However, if you are not able to improve the original, or at least to offer a well-reasoned, clear version of it, you’d better not take the risk.

We are indeed faced with a revisionist fever which sometimes shows little respect for the tremendous work carried out by the great fathers of gastronomy in general and of pastry in particular. Anyone thinks to have the right to ‘update’, ‘modernize’, or ‘revisit’ desserts which are part of the world heritage.

Not only does the transformation (some speak of deconstruction so as to provide avant-garde reasons) affect formal or esthetic aspects, but it also attacks the very essence of the creation – taste.

It is true that tastes change with the pass of time. It is true that we are nowadays less tolerant of fats and sugars, but we should not forget that these elements are actually the conductors of flavors and textures in a dessert. Searching for balance is a laudable task. Searching for sensationalism and a pretentious, cause-less revolution is a sacrilege.

Aware of all this, in this so good.. #9 we have dared ask four great patissiers for their own version of none other than the Tatin. And we have entitled the article ‘The Tatin Challenge’, as it is indeed a difficult challenge, taking into account that the original is magical, universal and almost unsurpassable.

We can state, and the readers of so good.. can judge, that the works that these four brave chefs created were outstanding, as they provided highly interesting elements from the view of professionalism, always sticking to the essence and spirit of the Tatin.

On the other hand, we detected in the case of these four chefs and of every other chef appearing in this issue a common feature which unites them and places them at the same professional level: a passion for the trade, a passion which forces them to do a good job, to keep growing and improving, as well as evolving, but always from the view of logic, coherence and highest consideration towards our predecessors.

so good #9 editorial [contents]