Tales of kheer with sugarcane sorbet, caramel foxnuts and dates by Ruchit Harneja

Kheer, a rice and milk-based pudding, holds a special place in Indian culinary traditions. Its origins date back centuries and it has evolved into a prized dessert enjoyed throughout the country.

Ruchit Harneja, the Executive pastry chef of the Musaafer restaurant in Houston, fondly remembers when he was a child and his mother and his grandmother prepared this pudding. Later, “during my culinary journey, I discovered the vast array of lesser-known kheer variations, inspiring me to incorporate unique ingredients and flavors into my desserts,” he notes.

The layered composition of Tales of Kheer includes Punjab’s refreshing Roah di Kheer with sugarcane juice and basmati rice, paying homage to the summers of Punjab. The legendary “Benami Kheer” adds mystery and intrigue, with slivered garlic transformed into rice-like grains, complemented by cardamom, rose water, and reduced milk. Use of superfoods like chironji, foxnuts, pumpkin seeds, and dates enhances both the flavors and nutritional value of the desserts. Caramelized foxnuts, Ruby Chocolate & Chironji Rocks, date cakes, and a zesty Sugarcane, Ginger & Lime Sorbet add layers of complexity and delight to the preparation.

Tales of kheer

Six portions

Chenna poda

150 g Graham crackers, crushed
75 g unsalted butter, melted
300 g fresh paneer (Indian cottage cheese)
150 g sugar
75 g semolina (sooji/rava)
75 g ghee (clarified butter)
1/2 teaspoon cardamom powder
Few saffron strands (Optional)

Preheat your oven to 180°C (350°F) and grease a sheet tray. In a bowl, mix the crushed Graham crackers and melted butter until well combined. Press this mixture into the bottom of the greased sheet tray to form the Graham crumb layer. Take the fresh paneer in a large bowl and crumble it until it becomes smooth and free of lumps. Add sugar to the paneer and mix well until the sugar dissolves completely. Next, add semolina, ghee, cardamom powder, and saffron strands (if using). Mix everything together until well combined. Transfer the mixture to the sheet tray on top of the graham crumb layer and spread it evenly, pressing it down gently. Place the cake pan in the preheated oven and bake for about 40-45 minutes or until the top turns golden brown and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Once baked, remove the pan from the oven and let it cool completely. Once cooled, refrigerate the Chenna Poda for a few hours or overnight to set.

Benami Kheer

500 g garlic cloves (peeled)
5 g powdered alum
750 g milk
1 g cardamom powder
100 g sugar
5 ml rose water

Begin by slivering the garlic cloves and soaking them in water for about an hour. In a pot, bring 600 ml of water to a boil and add 1/3rd of the alum. Boil the slivered garlic cloves in this water for approximately 10 minutes. Strain the garlic cloves and rinse them under running water. Repeat this step two more times. Soak the garlic cloves in plain water for 5 minutes, lightly scrub them, and then strain and wash them again under running water. Heat the milk and let it simmer until it reduces to one third its original quantity. Add the blanched garlic cloves, sugar, cardamom powder, and rose water to the reduced milk. Pour the mixture on top of baked chenna poda and allow to set in refrigerator.

Roah di Kheer

500 ml sugarcane juice
25 g jaggery powder
75 g pre-soaked basmati rice
1 g cardamom powder
1 g salt
50 g cocoa butter
40 g white chocolate
1 g green color (fat soluble)

In a pot, combine the sugarcane juice and pre-soaked basmati rice. Bring it to a boil. Reduce the heat and let the mixture simmer. Add the jaggery powder and continue cooking until it thickens to a custard-like texture. Stir in the cardamom powder and a sprinkle of salt. Pour the mixture into tourbillon molds and place them in the freezer to set. Melt the cocoa butter and white chocolate together, and blend in the green color. Strain the mixture. Use a chocolate spray machine to spray the melted mixture onto the frozen Roah di Kheer.

Sugarcane Sorbet

500 ml sugarcane juice
40 ml glucose syrup
25 ml lime juice
10 ml ginger juice
Few mint leaves
2 g black salt

In a saucepan, mix 1/3rd of the sugarcane juice with glucose syrup and mint leaves. Bring it to a boil. Allow the mixture to cool, then add the remaining sugarcane juice, lime juice, ginger juice, and a sprinkle of black salt. Churn the mixture in an ice-cream churner or paco jet and store it in the freezer until ready to use.

Ruby Chocolate & Chironji Rocks

50 g Ruby chocolate
50 g Toasted chironji (cuddapah almonds)

Temper the ruby chocolate and mix it with the toasted chironji. Use parchment paper to create small rocks with the mixture. Allow them to cool and set.

Cashew & Pumpkin Seed Clusters

50 g fried cashews
20 g pumpkin seeds
60 g sugar
6 g butter
1 g salt

In a pan, melt the sugar until lightly caramelized. Stir in the butter and a pinch of salt. Add the fried cashews and pumpkin seeds, immediately stirring to coat them in the caramel. Transfer the mixture to a silicone mat and allow it to harden. Cut the hardened mixture into small clusters and set aside.

Caramel Foxnuts

15 g toasted foxnuts
25 g sugar
5 g butter
1,5 g baking soda

In a pan, melt the sugar until lightly caramelized. Add the baking soda and immediately add the toasted foxnuts. Stir quickly and add the butter. Transfer the mixture to a silicone mat and allow it to cool.

Date Cake

100 g date paste
2 g instant coffee powder
5 g baking powder
4 g baking soda
110 g flour
80 g boiling water
125 g sugar
125 g butter
1 u egg

In a saucepan, cook the dates in boiling water along with instant coffee. Once the mixture turns into a paste-like consistency, remove it from the heat and add baking soda. In a planetary mixer, combine the butter and brown sugar. Mix on medium speed using a paddle attachment until the mixture becomes fluffy and aerated. Gradually add the eggs one by one while continuing to mix at the same speed. In a separate mixing bowl, combine the flour and baking powder. Sift the dry ingredients. Fold the dry ingredients into the butter mixture using a spatula. Finally, add the date paste to create a smooth cake batter. Bake the batter in a water bath at 160°C for 40 minutes. Once baked, cut the cake into cubes, and set them aside.

Montage

Use a round cookie cutter to cut the Benami Kheer & chenna poda into desired shapes. Place the Roah di Kheer on top. Slice the combination in half and decorate the rim with caramelized foxnuts, Ruby & Chironji Rocks, Cashew & Pumpkin Seed Clusters, and Date Cake cubes. Quenelle the Sugarcane Sorbet and place it on the plate on top of date cake.