Cabosse Frozen Cake with Cocoa Pulp and Mandarin and Mango Semifreddo by Juan Pablo Colubri

As Argentinian chef Juan Pablo Colubri explains in our international ice cream magazine, so cool.. magazine 2, professional training provides tools to understand the ingredients, processes, and parameters of ice cream making. But this training often pigeonholes and limits, as it doesn’t encourage people to challenge the rules which are considered “correct”.

In this article, the international ice cream and pastry consultant overcomes his fear and dares to challenge the canons of chocolate with creations like the Cabosse ice cream cake, in which he approaches cacao from a fruity perspective, abandoning its more common association with chocolate, to achieve a fresh and light result.

To create the mold, Colubri was inspired by the Argentinian Gelato World Cup team, with whom he worked for a few days. “I wanted the design to reflect and also be part of the concept of breaking the mold. In this sense, the help I received from Pablo Ortelli, Alberto Alegre, and Diego Calculli in the design and creation of the mold was fundamental. We managed to reproduce the cacao pod based on the idea of maintaining some of its natural characteristics, an organic yet modern and clean aesthetic.”

Discover so cool.. magazine 2

Cabosse

Mandarin, mango and osmanthus flower semifreddo

200 g mandarin juice
7 g dried osmanthus flower
40 g cacao pulp concentrate
15 g mandarin peel
200 g mango purée
10 g sucrose
5 g cold-use sorbe stabilizer
130 g fresh egg whites
55 g sucrose
40 g dextrose
20 g powdered glucose 38 DE
285 g heavy cream 35% fat

_ Serving temperature: -10.79°C
_ Relative sweetness: 17%
_ Proteins: 2%
_ Lactose: 1%
_ Total fat: 10%
_ Total sugars: 19%
Infuse the osmanthus in the mandarin juice at 80°C for 20 minutes. Strain and re-scale the juice, add the cacao pulp concentrate, the mandarin peel, the mango purée and the stabilizer mixed with the 10 g of sucrose. Blend again and let stand for 2 hours.
Mix the egg whites with the sugars and cook in a bain-marie until 65ºC. Add the mandarin juice mixture to the meringue and mix well.
Add the semi-whipped cream, mix and set aside in a piping bag.

Candied kumquat

300 g fresh kumquats
300 g sucrose
300 g mandarin juice

Cut the kumquats in half and remove the seeds. In a large saucepan of cold water, bring the kumquats to a boil for 3 minutes. Strain and repeat the process about seven times or until the kumquats are tender.
In a large saucepan, bring the sucrose and mandarin juice to a boil, add the previously cooked kumquats and continue cooking until the syrup reaches 55º Brix.
Cool, cut into quarters and set aside.

Cacao pulp and candied kumquat ice cream

45 g skimmed milk powder, 1% fat
6 g Cremodan SE 30 stabilizer
80 g sucrose
29 g dextrose
49 g powdered glucose 38 DE
9 g inulin
405 g whole milk, 3% fat
20 g cacao pulp concentrate
180 g heavy cream, 35% fat
178 g cacao pulp

_Serving temperature: -11.80°C
_ Relative sweetness: 18%
_ Total solids: 37%
_ Proteins: 3%
_ Lactose: 5%
_ Total fat: 7%
_ Total sugars: 24%
Mix the sugars together with the stabilizer, the milk powder and the inulin.
Pour the milk into a large bowl and add the previous mixture, mixing everything with the help of a handheld blender.
Pasteurize at 85ºC and add the heavy cream at 65ºC when the temperature is descending. Cool to 4ºC and add the cacao pulp. Mix the ensemble with the help of a handheld blender and leave to mature for 8 hours.
Churn and when the ice cream comes out, add the candied kumquats. Reserve in the blast freezer.

Cacao pulp and raspberry sorbet insert

5 g Cremodan 216 Sorbetline stabilizer
80 g sucrose
50 g dextrose
50 g powdered glucose 38 DE
200 g water
500 g cacao pulp
115 g seedless raspberry purée

_ Serving temperature: -12.67°C
_ Relative sweetness: 23%
_ Total solids: 30%
_ Fibers: 3%
_ Total sugars: 26%
Mix the sugars together with the stabilizer. Pour the water into a large bowl and add the sugars. Mix everything with the help of a handheld blender.
Pasteurize at 85ºC and let cool to 4ºC. Mix with the cacao pulp and raspberry purée. Churn and fill the insert mold. Freeze and set aside.

Almond croustillant

150 g almond paste
200 g W2 white chocolate
50 g sunflower oil
168 g pailleté feuilletine)
1.5 g salt

Melt the chocolate together with the sunflower oil and the almond paste. Add the salt and the pailleté feuilletine. Mix and spread on a silicone mat using two 3-millimeter rulers. Freeze and cut.

Red chocolate glaze

200 g cocoa butter
20 g chocolate power 80 80.5%
3 g fat-soluble red coloring

Melt the cocoa butter together with the chocolate, add the coloring and incorporate with the help of a handheld blender.

Assembly

The ice cream cake is made up of 3 molds, an inner mold that goes inside a larger one, and then this piece is sealed with the almond croustillant. This entire finished piece fits inside the larger mold.

Fill the smaller mold well with the cacao pulp and raspberry sorbet and smooth well, avoiding bubbles or an uneven surface. Freeze and set aside in the blast freezer. Fill the medium mold with the cacao pulp and candied kumquat ice cream, leaving room to place the insert.

Press well so that the ice cream acquires the shape of the mold and no bubbles are formed. Press in the cacao pulp and raspberry sorbet insert and the almond croustillant and smooth everything very well. Freeze the piece well and reserve in the blast freezer. Pre-crystallize the red chocolate glaze to 29°C and fill the outer cocoa pod mold, leave to set for one minute so that it forms a thin layer, and empty the mold. Fill the larger mold with 60 grams of mandarin, mango and osmanthus flower semifreddo and, with the help of a teaspoon, spread the semifreddo all over the mold to avoid the formation of bubbles. Unmold the medium piece and place it inside the larger mold where the semifreddo is.

Smooth the piece well so that the surface is perfectly even and freeze the ice cream cake completely. Unmold and finish the piece by spraying with the same red chocolate glaze, but this time melted to 45ºC, looking for the velvet effect only on the smooth side of the cake.

Discover this recipe by Juan Pablo Colubri in so cool.. magazine 2

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