Why is pastry key in a restaurant? Kunal Kathpalia (Indienne) gives five reasons

It’s only one word but it speaks volumes about the philosophy of Chicago restaurant, Indienne. Like its name suggests, it specializes in Indian cuisine but with a French accent.

Located in a 19th-century printing warehouse in Chicago’s River North neighborhood, Indienne has received numerous accolades, including a spot on Esquire’s “Best New Restaurants in America” list and a similar honor from Bon Appetit magazine since opening in September 2022.

Executive pastry chef Kunal Kathpalia plays a key role in the success of Indienne, where he works closely with Sarkar, who often shares ideas from his extensive travels, including India.

In so good.. magazine issue 34, Kunal Kathpalia himself discusses the potential and importance of pastry on a restaurant menu. Here are some of his thoughts!

Photo Credit: Neil John Burger

Discover so good.. magazine 34

Pastry is much more than just a part of a menu

“Pastry is so much more than a small section of the menu or the final bites of a meal. I believe it’s an art form and discipline that allows for endless creativity and expression. It’s where technique meets imagination”.

Pastry can surprise through flavors and textures

“My favorite part of pastry is working with unusual flavor pairings and unexpected textures and bringing together ingredients in ways that surprise and bring joy to our guests. That could mean adding a savory note to a traditionally sweet dish or reimagining a nostalgic dessert in new ways.”

Pastry is no longer just about indulgence or technique; it’s about connection

“What excites me most is this shift toward storytelling through pastry and using ingredients and plating to communicate memory, heritage and identity. Pastry is no longer just about indulgence or technique; it’s about connection. I find it all incredibly inspiring and it encourages chefs like me to celebrate our roots while innovating fearlessly.”

Pastry offers the possibility of merging the old and the new

Kathpalia has become adept at combining Indian and European culinary traditions, as well as more modern ones, such as molecular gastronomy techniques. “These cross-cultural desserts tell a story about memory, identity and the possibilities that come from blending the old with the new. They’re rooted in tradition, but they’re also a reflection of where pastry can go next.”

Pastry leaves a lasting impression with its presentation

The serving vessel for each dish is carefully considered, from its shape and color to its texture and material. Vibrant colors, playful plating, and functional and visually appealing garnishes are distinctive features of their creations.

“Presentation is another important criterion, people eat with their eyes first. My goal is to create desserts that don’t just stand on their own but enhance the entire dining experience and leave a lasting final impression.”

Discover these creations by Kunal Kathpalia in so good.. magazine 34