Talia Profet explores how cocoa powder transforms the flavor and texture of ice cream

Working alongside Sandro Micheli, pastry chef at Le Louis XV – Alain Ducasse, she had the opportunity to create and taste an ice cream that left a lasting impression on her: rhubarb and Sauternes, recalls Talia Profet, pastry chef and technician at OFI (Olam Food Ingredients), the group that owns the renowned cocoa powder brand deZaan.

In recent years, cocoa and its many applications in haute cuisine have occupied a significant part of her professional activity. And more recently, in collaboration with the ice cream R&D specialists at OFI, the chef has been able to delve deeper into the possibilities of cocoa powder in ice cream. “Its influence extends beyond flavor and color. It can dramatically alter the texture and sensory experience of ice cream. Depending on the type and treatment of the cocoa, the ice cream may feel colder or warmer on the palate, lighter or denser, smoother, or more granular. These subtle shifts are the result of precise formulation and process control.”

As a great expert on the subject, Talia Profet offers us in our ice cream magazine so cool.. magazine 3 some of the keys to the versatility of this product and delves into the dutched cocoa powders vs the natural cocoa powders.

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Ice-cream and cocoa: Dutched vs natural cocoa powders

Using cocoa powder as an ingredient in ice cream allows you to control the recipe by adjusting the percentages of fat, sugar, dairy, and plant-based options. This versatility enables you to create rich, complex, and delightful ice cream flavors.  

The dutching process improves the water absorbing properties of a cocoa powder and its dispersibility. As a result, a dutched cocoa powder with a high pH (7.5 and above) will attract more water in the ice cream. This will create a thicker structure with a slower melting time.

This is true whether you are making a sorbet or a gelato. If choosing a highly alkalized powder such as Carbon Black cocoa powder for an ice cream base/sorbet base, change the quantity in line with the texture you would like. Its capacity for absorbing water will lead to a significantly thicker ice cream.

Tip: Using dutched cocoa powders improves scoopability because of the water-binding capabilities within the cocoa powders. Fat content also plays a significant role in a perfect ice cream, choosing the right fat % cocoa powder can help change the structure of ice cream.

Tip: The properties of the alkalized cocoa powders can complement the incorporation of air into the ice cream structure so in other words, can help in improving the overrun although this is not the primary ingredient that will help with overrun. The primary ingredients that help with overrun are proteins and fats.

Tip: Viscosity increases with more addition of cocoa powder. Adjusting dosage of stabilizing system is recommended to achieve desired texture.

Cocoa cooking

Cocoa cooking is a method that can open the cocoa powder’s pores, which improves its capacity to absorb water, leading to a smoother texture and unlocking the cocoa powder’s flavor notes in the final ice cream recipe. In certain cases, this can also help with reducing the stabilizers within a recipe.

_ Impact of Fat content within the ice creams and sorbets

Cocoa powder impacts multiple aspects of the ice cream or sorbet matrix such as mouthfeel, melting behavior, scoopability and of course flavor and color.

Ice cream has a cold and cooling effect on mouthfeel which is impacted by the melting point of the fats in the ice cream, including the cocoa butter from the cocoa powder. Higher cocoa butter content in ice cream will create a colder mouthfeel and slower the melting time.

A higher cocoa butter fat content causes a colder mouthfeel and slower melting time. On the other hand, higher cocoa solids (lower fat cocoa = more cocoa solids) cause more water-binding capabilities and quicker melting time.

How does natural vs dutched impact ice-creams and sorbets?

Discover in so cool.. magazine 3 tips for basic ice cream recipe, basic sorbet recipe, basic soft-serve recipe, and these four creations.