Sap, an ingredient with many possibilities in pastry, according to Graham Mairs

After years of research, British pastry chef and ambassador for Les Vergers Boiron, Graham Mairs, returns to so good.. magazine to offer us a glimpse into the gastronomic potential he has discovered in tree sap. As he himself tells us: “Through the process of extracting and studying sap from a diverse range of tree species, I have developed a deeper appreciation for its potential—not only in terms of flavor and nutritional value, but also for its culinary applications.”

In his hands, sap becomes a fascinating new ingredient for pastry. A natural sweetener that provides interesting flavor nuances, as he explains in so good.. magazine 35. This innovative article has generated considerable interest and graces the cover of the issue.

Photos, Jodi Hinds

Discover so good.. magazine 35

Sap, a universe of opportunities and nuances

In nature, there are as many types of sap as there are species of trees. Each one offers different characteristics. The age of the tree and the time of year when the sap is collected must also be taken into account. I recommend slowly exploring all this potential, in the company of local collectors and with an eye on the forests around us, connecting with their rhythms.

Many trees produce edible sap. In addition to those mentioned above, those extracted from the birch family are also noteworthy (Yellow Birch is a good source of minerals and antioxidants, but the sugar content is lower than maple sap). Also worth mentioning are walnut trees (butternut, black walnut, and heartnut all produce sweet sap), pine trees (some pine saps are edible and can be chewed as gum, but caution is advised as some pine species can be toxic), fruit trees such as apple and plum, and grapevines.

Below is a list of saps of gastronomic interest and their flavor nuances depending on the production process. In any case, these are not the only edible saps.

In so good..magazine 35 you can find a table describing the applications of each SAP

Three saps, five creations

Mairs harnesses this potential by using three of these saps in five tempting and orginal creations. 

Sykomoros with Sycamore Sap

The name Sykomoros derives from the Ancient Greek σῡκόμορος, meaning ‘fig-mulberry’. It is a combination of sycamore sap (mildly sweet, earthy, and slightly nutty), quince and elderflower, each ingredient with layered floral, tart, and subtly sweet dimensions. Together, they create a unique botanical palette that feels nostalgic, fragrant, and slightly wild.

To balance these, use quince as the structural or central ingredient (poached, puréed, or jellied), use sycamore sap as a glaze, syrup, or sweetener for depth, and use elderflower either fresh, dried, or as a cordial/infusion to highlight aromatic highs.

Discover the recipe in so good.. 35

Acer with Box-Elder Sap

This is a combination of Box elder sap (lightly sweet, clean, woody, less intense than maple; acts as a bridge or glaze), chestnut and black tea. It is a rich, smoky, and woody combination, perfect for dishes or products that evoke deep forest, fireside, and autumnal atmospheres.

Discover the recipe in so good.. 35

Palmae, S.A.P Droplet and Milk Skin with Coconut ‘Char – ‘ Coal ‘ SAP

The combination of three ingredients can deliver different experiences and creations. In this case, the association of Coconut Sap, Black Garlic, and Ash gives three ultimate experiences that take you through a journey of simplicity daring fusion of sweet and savory. This dessert pairs aged coconut sap with a silky black garlic-infused cremeux or the deep molasses tones of the sap melt into the balsamic richness of fermented garlic with the milk skin crisp.

In the end, the combination works because sweetness enhances umami (e.g., honey + cheese), the savory notes balance and ground sweetness (e.g., salt in caramel) and crossover dishes play with contrast, depth, and surprise, making them memorable.

Discover the recipe in so good.. 35

You can also find in so good.. magazine 35 the processes for making sap (boiling, fermentation, aging) and SAP sweetness information.