The prototype of the total chef: Frank Vollkommer’s four keys to pastry

Frank Vollkommer is a Certified Master Pastry Chef® (CMPC), one of only five in the United States. Based in Napa Valley, he heads the pastry program at the Michelin-starred restaurant PRESS and shapes the breads and desserts at the unclassifiable adjoining business called Under-Study.

Vollkommer is versatile, decisive, and practical, but who puts all five senses into every dessert, from its creation and design to its execution. It doesn’t matter if it’s a chocolate bar, a croissant, a plated dessert or a caramel showpiece. He is definitely the prototype of the total chef, increasingly a rara avis in these times of maximum specialization.

In so good.. magazine 34, we wanted to talk to him about his vision of pastry. Don’t miss out on his thoughts!

Photos: Nicola Parisi

Discover so good.. magazine 34

He favors seasonality and local producers

“I’m always working within the limits of the season and the ingredients we’ve committed to, especially when we’re working with the farm or planning around a specific harvest. That’s a creative constraint I actually appreciate as it forces you to dig deeper. It’s also not just about what looks cool or what I want to make. It has to eat well, feel balanced, and make sense in context. So I don’t see limits as a bad thing; they’re part of what keeps the work honest”.

Simple desserts, but beautifully executed

“A dessert is complete when structure, texture, and flavor are in harmony, when there’s nothing to add or remove. That doesn’t always require complexity. A well-made chocolate mousse is one of my favorite desserts. It’s less about chasing some ideal and more about executing something well. Sometimes a simple classic evokes feelings of nostalgia or childhood”.

Craftsmanship as the essence

“My creative process usually begins with a single ingredient – a fruit at its peak or a chocolate with a unique character. The goal is to capture that flavor at its best and create something that feels intentional and complete.

Whether it’s something more refined for PRESS or more playful at Under-Study, the through line is craft. I want each dessert to feel like it couldn’t have been made anywhere else, by anyone else”.

Specialization reduces versatility

“Our work has become increasingly specialized, with many young chefs focusing early on a single discipline. That can lead to excellence in a specific area, but sometimes at the expense of versatility. Developing range takes time, and not all kitchen structures are designed to support that kind of growth. Still, I believe foundational skills across multiple areas remain essential”.

Discover full interview and these creations by Frank Vollkommer in so good.. magazine 34