How to reinvent lemon tart with six innovative ingredients, according to Julien Álvarez

Julien Álvarez, the creative chef at Maison Ladurée, collaborates with Oscar Albiñana, R&D chef at Sosa Ingredients, to reformulate classic French pastries like Tarte au Citron. “I’m interested in working with very classic recipes and trying to see how we can enhance the flavor, reduce the heaviness, and improve the textures,” he explains.

In so good.. magazine 35, he shows us which innovative ingredients he has used to increase the crunchiness of its base while enhancing the sensation of freshness and all the nuances found in lemon through different textures.

Photos, Pier Monetta

Discover so good.. magazine 35

Six key ingredients

“When we think of a tarte au citron, I want to find what I believe is characteristic of the tart but in the best possible version, both in terms of texture and flavor. That is why we decided on a reconstructed sablé that helps us reinforce the crunchy touch that serves as the base for everything we are going to taste from the lemon: cream, gel, marshmallow, fresh lime, and candied lemon. It is lemon in all textures but also in all its nuances, including freshness, a hint of bitterness, and ultimately everything I expect from a good lemon.”

Procrunx wheat fiber

A very versatile ingredient for all types of dough, both those that contain egg and those that do not. 

“In the croustillant base, this fiber increases the crunchy texture and also preserves it for longer.”

Inulin

A natural fiber extracted from roots and tubers, designed to improve the texture of both hot and cold liquids through strong stirring.

“It can reduce the chocolate by 17% and the sugar by 5%, reducing fat and sweetness in the lemon cream.”

Gelcrem Hot

This is cornstarch treated at high pressure. It is a functional native starch with high resistance to freezing and thawing processes. Unlike traditional cornstarch, Gelcrem adds a lot of shine to preparations. It is a ‘clean label’ ingredient with no additives.

“Hot Gelcrem allows for thickening, adds shine and creaminess, and remains intact after freezing. It has been a great discovery.”

Gelcrem Cold 

Pre-gelatinized modified potato starch, no heating required to thicken. Also highly resistant to freezing.

“Regarding the lemon gel, I used to make it from a gelatin already made with agar agar. Using cold Gelcrem gives me a fresher flavor because I don’t need to heat the juice. It also shines more and allows me to freeze it without any problems. It is one of my favorite products.”

Albumin

Powdered egg albumin. Whipping, emulsifying, and coagulating effect. Substitute for fresh or pasteurized egg white.

“In the lemon and mint marshmallow, the addition of albumin makes whipping easier and reduces the time compared to the classic whipped gelatin process (guimauve type), which also requires strict temperature and time control.”

Proglaçage

A 100% plant-based gelling agent powder.

“In the glaze, the fluidity provided by Proglaçage in a spray gun is a real advantage. It makes it easy to work with.”

Discover the complete recipe for this reimagined lemon tart, as well as a Paris Brest entremet (innovative ingredients and recipe), in so good.. magazine 35