David Baert: “Experience and anticipation are a great advantage in restaurant pastry”

“After all these years in the profession, experience plays a major role,” says David Baert in so good.. magazine 35, “having quick insight, being able to switch gears or anticipate is a great advantage in the restaurant world.”

The career that the pastry chef at Hof Van Cleve (Kruisem, Belgium) has carved out on the sweet side of gastronomy is nourished by intense experiences, such as running his own business at the age of 24, combining pastry and bakery. Or his arrival in 2021, in the midst of the pandemic, at the aforementioned legendary Belgian restaurant, then run by Peter Goosens, where simplicity and timeless flavors are at the heart of his approach. Five years later, he has become the perfect expression of that classic legacy, which is no less restless for being classic. We share the interview we conducted with him during our visit, exclusively on our website.

Special correspondent, Bruno Van Vaerenbergh __ Photos, Debic

Discover so good.. magazine 35

What is the collaboration with Chef Floris Van Der Veken like? Where do you coincide with him on work lines, seasonal ingredients, and thematic concepts?

Together with the chef, we evaluate the new desserts each season, with a primary focus on flavor. No frills or gimmicks, but rather a harmonious combination of ingredients. Working according to the seasons is a must.

For plated desserts, we adhere closely to the style of Hof van Cleve: clean, delicious, and flavorful. This approach is also reflected in the trolley desserts — no unusual flavors or seven layers in one pastry. Simply straightforward and good, with the focus always on flavor, which remains paramount.

And regarding the rest of the team: how many people do you work with to develop this triple responsibility of bakery, pastry, and mignardises?

I’m supported by one employee who is primarily responsible for finishing the desserts on the plate. While these desserts are being served, à la carte orders sometimes come in, which can make the job stressful. That’s why it’s crucial that we work well together and support each other. This applies to the entire team; being there for each other is crucial. With 22 people in the kitchen, we have enough hands to support each other where necessary.

What are the key steps for a new dessert (or pastry) to make it onto the menu? How frequently does this happen?

The menu is updated every three to four months, including the desserts and the trolley, in line with the seasons. We always strive to incorporate as many textures as possible within one dessert. 

Everything must be perfectly balanced in terms of flavor, with a harmonious interplay between the softness and the sharpness of the dessert. The crisp element, the juice, and the combination of warm and cold in one dessert all play a significant role in the taste experience. The senses should be fully open to appreciate the flavor.

How do you translate seasonal ingredients into your creations? In what way do local products coexist with classic pastry ingredients from diverse origins, such as chocolate, vanilla, nuts, or exotic fruits?

We strive to work as sustainably as possible, which is not always easy in our cold Belgian climate. Only the best is good enough: lemons from Amalfi, oranges from Sicily, clementines from Corsica, vanilla from Madagascar, nuts from Périgord or Piedmont, and chocolate from pâtissier Van Dender, who fully embraces the bean-to-bar concept.

At the same time, we always aim to bring a local touch to our desserts, combined with more unique flavors. The latest plated dessert features Belgian raspberries paired with sakura, yoghurt, and a pistachio crumble. Combining flavors with textures is crucial for the overall taste experience.

What’s wrong with a delicious cannelé de Bordeaux, a classic éclair with a surprising twist, a scrumptious banana tart with perfectly caramelized sablé and vanilla, or a Paris-Brest with a new twist?

Which pastries have become house emblems, impossible to remove from the dessert trolley due to their high popularity?

Chef Goossens’ vision still largely determines our development. His motto was: simple, classic, and delicious. This is reflected in Chef Floris, who worked alongside Chef Goossens for a full ten years before the takeover.

What’s wrong with a delicious cannelé de Bordeaux, a classic éclair with a surprising twist, a scrumptious banana tart with perfectly caramelized sablé and vanilla, or a Paris-Brest with a new twist? We see that the classics still do very well on our trolley, but they need to be refined to perfection and presented correctly. Classic desserts will always be there.

Is the same true for the plated dessert menu? Which creations have stood the test of time? Are there any that date back to the previous stage with Chef Peter Goossens?

The line between our dishes and desserts is carefully balanced. Our desserts on the plate reflect the dishes, always focusing on flavor without unnecessary decorative elements. Hof van Cleve’s philosophy is “less is more.” Too much visual stimulation can overwhelm the senses and thus diminish the taste experience.

Our signature dish is the spherical dessert, developed during Chef Goossens’ time and a staple for years. This means we don’t have to change our shapes every season, contributing to a sustainable approach.

Hof van Cleve’s philosophy is “less is more.” Too much visual stimulation can overwhelm the senses and thus diminish the taste experience

What future projects are you currently involved in? Do you plan to continue developing your role as Head Pastry Chef at Hof van Cleve?

My girlfriend and I have a future in the United Arab Emirates, specifically Dubai. We’ve already invested in real estate, but the exact time of departure hasn’t been determined yet. It depends on the completion of the property.

Chef Floris is aware of our plans. Naturally, I will carefully guide my successor to seamlessly continue Hof van Cleve’s vision, ensuring a smooth transition, amless transition for our customers.

Hope to apply the experience I gained at Hof van Cleve in Dubai. There’s impressive growth happening there in various areas, particularly in the culinary field. I’m looking forward to contributing to a great company in the sunny East, and I’ve already connected with local chefs for a new career.

I will always be grateful to Hof van Cleve for the opportunities it has given me and the doors it has opened for me. Thanks to Chef Goossens and Chef Van der Veken, I have been able to give my all.

Discover these creations by David Baert in so good.. magazine 35