Best Magazine Of Haute Pâtissere
February 28, 2017
Author:
Alberto Ruiz
TAGS #
Christophe Morel Jerome Landrieu Melissa Coppel Ramon Morató so good #17
Five New York stories

Five stories told through five bonbons that pay homage to the five legendary boroughs of New York City. Ramon Morató, Jerome Landrieu, Melissa Coppel, Nicolas Dutertre, and Christophe Morel are the ‘narrators’ of these chocolate stories or, in other words, the authors of five bonbons inspired by the neighborhoods mentioned. Morató has noticed the great tradition of small companies that produce beer in Brooklynn; for Dutertre, Manhattan is mostly a cheesecake; Coppel highlights the cultural diversity of Queens through the Colombian Putumayo; Morel pays homage to the first settlers of Staten Island; And finally, for Landrieu, the Bronx evokes the American prohibition era. Under the sponsorship of Cacao Barry, five bonbons were tasted during the gala for the World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2016, held a few months ago in the Big Apple.

5 bonbons so good 17

 

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Jerome Landrieu. Prohibition 1920. The Bronx


landrieuvanilla Whisky ganache

  • 113 g water
  • 50 g buckwheat honey
  • 13 g glucose de 60
  • 23 g dextrose powder
  • 1 u Madagascar vanilla bean
  • 316 g Cacao Barry Alunga 41%
  • 60 g dry butter
  • 45 g Basil Hayden whisky

Heat the water, vanilla and sugars to 70ºC.
Pour over the chocolate and butter.
Blend with burr mixer.
Add the whisky and burr mix again.
Cast at 29ºC.


buckwheat pecan praliné base

  • 100 g water
  • 350 g sugar
  • 25 g sorbitol powder
  • 80 g glucose syrup
  • 1 pc Nielsen Massey vanilla bean
  • 1 g salt
  • 625 g pecans
  • 130 g buckwheat
  • 20 g milk powder, 0% fat

Heat the water and sugars to 118ºC.
Add the pecans and caramelize.
Add the salt and buckwheat.
Once caramelized, pour on a silicone mat to cool.
Blend and add the milk powder in Blixer.


buckwheat pecan praliné

  • 550 g buckwheat pecan praliné base
  • 75 g Cacao Barry Lactée Barry Equilibre 36%
  • 62 g cocoa butter
  • cocoa Butter (crystallized from Magic Temper 7)
  • 75 g pailleté feuilletine

Grind the feuilletine and buckwheat. Set aside.
Melt the chocolate and cocoa butter to 45ºC.
Pour over the pecan praliné and crystallize to 33ºC and add the crystallized cocoa butter from Magic Temper machine. Test the crystallization.
Once perfectly crystallized, add the feuilletine and cast.


Finishing

Mold with Equilibre milk couverture in molds previously sprayed with the desired colors.


NY Borough: The Bronx
Buckwheat Honey /15 Years old American Whiskey and Alunga™ milk chocolate ganache /Pecans and Roasted Buckwheat Praline.
Bonbon Name: Prohibition 1920.
Chocolate used: Alunga™ milk chocolate 41%.
Flavors: Buckwheat Honey /15 Years old American Whiskey and Alunga™ milk chocolate ganache /Pecans and Roasted Buckwheat Praline.

For the 50 Best event I created a Whisky Pecan Chocolate Bonbon. I was really inspired by the American prohibition era. If I could travel back in time, this would be the time period I would love to go to. During this time it was illegal to manufacture, transport and sell intoxicating liquors. There is something very intriguing to me about bootlegging, speakeasies and gangsters and I wanted to play with this idea and the flavor of whisky.

prohibition. landrieu

 

Melissa Coppel. Putomayo. Queens


Captura_de_pantalla_2017-02-28_a_las_13.21.25NY Borough
: Queens
Coconut Caramel /Milk chocolate Ghana and Passion Ganache/Maria Cookie Crunch.
Bonbon Name: Putomayo.
Chocolate used: Origine Ghana 40% cacao milk chocolate.
Flavors: Coconut Caramel/Milk Chocolate Ghana and Passion Ganache/Marie Cookie Crunch.
Inspiration: Queens has been claimed the most diverse place on the planet according to the Guinness Boook of the World Records. Also a high % of its population is Hispanic or Latino, so I think it fits me perfectly. Putomayo is the name of a region of Colombia.

You will find the recipe in so good #17

putomayo. melissa coppel

 

Christophe Morel. Origine. Staten Island

Captura_de_pantalla_2017-02-28_a_las_13.21.33NY Borough: Staten Island.
Crunchy almond praliné, Alunga™ milk chocolate ganache with apple and cranberry bonbon.
Bonbon Name: Origine.
Chocolate used: Alunga™ milk chocolate 41%.
Inspiration: I was inspired by the first habitants of Staten Island, Algonquin Indians.

You will find the recipe in so good #17

bonbon origine. Morel

 

Ramon Morató. Tribute to Brooklyn. Brooklyn

Captura_de_pantalla_2017-02-28_a_las_13.21.40NY Borough: Brooklyn.
Black beer and Alunga™ milk chocolate ganache, Caracrakine™ malted crunchy.
Bonbon Name: Tribute to Brooklyn.
Chocolate used: Alunga™ milk chocolate 41% and Equateur dark chocolate 76% cacao.
Inspiration: Bonbon shape is inspired by the two arches of the Brooklyn Bridge.
You will find the recipe in so good #17

brooklyn-morato

 

Nicolas Durtrete. The Red. Manhattan.

Nicolas DutertreNY Borough: Manhattan.
Red pepper/Strawberry confit – white chocolate Zephyr™ Cheesecake Ganache.
Bonbon Name: The Red.
Chocolate used: Zephyr.
Flavors: Red pepper/Strawberry confit – white chocolate Zephyr™ Cheesecake Ganache.

You will find the recipe in so good #17

red. dutertre

 

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